Knitting:
Textile fabric is defined as two dimensional
plane-like structure made of textile materials, having reasonable strength,
elongation, flexibility, etc., used for different applications, particularly
for apparels. Knitting is the second most popular technique of fabric or
garment formation of inter-looping one or one set of yarns, and its share in
fabric production is about 20%. In knitting continuous length of yarn is
converted into vertical inter-meshed loops either by hand or by machine.
According to the direction of movement of yarn
during loop formation, knitting can be classified as weft knitting and warp
knitting. Out of the two types of knitting, weft knitting is widely used.
Weft
Knitting: If the yarns run in the width or cross-wise
direction with reference to the direction of fabric formation during knitting,
then the process of knitting is called weft knitting.
Warp
Knitting: In case the yarns run in the length direction,
i.e. the direction of fabric formation during knitting, the process is called warp
knitting.
Accordingly, the structures are called
weft-knitted fabric and warp-knitted fabric, respectively, and the machines
employed for the purpose are called weft knitting machine and warp knitting
machine.
Process Flow Chart for
Knitting:
Yarn in package form
↓
Place the yarn package in the creel
↓
Feeding the yarn
↓
Set the m/c as per design & GSM
↓
Knitting
↓
Withdraw the roll fabric and weighting
↓
Roll marking
↓
Inspection
↓
Numbering
Some
terms of knit fabric:
Single knits: Knit fabric produced using a
single set of knitting needles. It is usually a thin lightweight fabric.
Double-knit: Knit fabric produced on two sets
of opposing needless. It is thicker and heavier than a single knit fabric.
Technical Face: The outside of the tube of fabric
produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the outside of
a finished garment made from the fabric.
Technical Back: The inside of the tube of fabric
produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the inside of a
finished garment made from the fabric.
Knit Stitch: An interlocking series of loops
used to construct a fabric. See the diagram above of the basic weft knit
fabric.
Tuck Stitch: A needle receives a new yarn
without losing its old loop. A tuck loop always faces the technical back of the
fabric.
Welt, Miss, or Float
Stitch: These
terms describe the same formation. The stitch is created by not allowing the
needle to raise high enough to receive a new yarn, causing the yarn to float
behind the face stitches.
Inlay Stitch: Combination of float and tuck
stitches. In a 3x1 inlay, three needles float and one tucks. Commonly used in
Fleece and French Terry fabrics.
Jersey Fabric: The basic single knit
construction (T- shirt fabric) with the appearance of tiny “V” is on the face
of the fabric and wavy courses on the back of the fabric.
Rib Fabric: This double-knit fabric draws
some wales to the front and others to the back for a ridge effect. Ribs have a
higher stretch and recovery than most knits and they are used for trim and body
goods.
Interlock Fabric: Two yarn feeds are required to create
one course. The knitting in front and back gives interlock a smooth surface on
each side of the fabric. Selected needles can be pulled out for poor boy looks.
Lacoste Fabric: The original stitch configuration
used in Lacoste shirts. The tucking pattern creates a tiny honeycomb look on
the technical back of the fabric, which is used as the face for garments.
Pique Fabric: The
combination of knit and tuck stitches gives a small diamond's appearance to the
face of the fabric. It is the most popular fabric used in collar/placket shirts