Weaving And Knitting

Knitting:

Textile fabric is defined as two dimensional plane-like structure made of textile materials, having reasonable strength, elongation, flexibility, etc., used for different applications, particularly for apparels. Knitting is the second most popular technique of fabric or garment formation of inter-looping one or one set of yarns, and its share in fabric production is about 20%. In knitting continuous length of yarn is converted into vertical inter-meshed loops either by hand or by machine.

According to the direction of movement of yarn during loop formation, knitting can be classified as weft knitting and warp knitting. Out of the two types of knitting, weft knitting is widely used.

Weft Knitting: If the yarns run in the width or cross-wise direction with reference to the direction of fabric formation during knitting, then the process of knitting is called weft knitting.

Warp Knitting: In case the yarns run in the length direction, i.e. the direction of fabric formation during knitting, the process is called warp knitting.

 Accordingly, the structures are called weft-knitted fabric and warp-knitted fabric, respectively, and the machines employed for the purpose are called weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine.

Process Flow Chart for Knitting:

Yarn in package form
↓
Place the yarn package in the creel
↓
Feeding the yarn
↓
Set the m/c as per design & GSM
↓
Knitting
↓
Withdraw the roll fabric and weighting
↓
Roll marking
↓
Inspection
↓
Numbering 

Some terms of knit fabric:

  Single knits: Knit fabric produced using a single set of knitting needles. It is usually a thin lightweight fabric.

  Double-knit: Knit fabric produced on two sets of opposing needless. It is thicker and heavier than a single knit fabric.

  Technical Face: The outside of the tube of fabric produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the outside of a finished garment made from the fabric.

  Technical Back: The inside of the tube of fabric produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the inside of a finished garment made from the fabric.

   Knit Stitch: An interlocking series of loops used to construct a fabric. See the diagram above of the basic weft knit fabric.

  Tuck Stitch: A needle receives a new yarn without losing its old loop. A tuck loop always faces the technical back of the fabric.

   Welt, Miss, or Float Stitch: These terms describe the same formation. The stitch is created by not allowing the needle to raise high enough to receive a new yarn, causing the yarn to float behind the face stitches.

   Inlay Stitch: Combination of float and tuck stitches. In a 3x1 inlay, three needles float and one tucks. Commonly used in Fleece and French Terry fabrics.

   Jersey Fabric: The basic single knit construction (T- shirt fabric) with the appearance of tiny “V” is on the face of the fabric and wavy courses on the back of the fabric.

   Rib Fabric: This double-knit fabric draws some wales to the front and others to the back for a ridge effect. Ribs have a higher stretch and recovery than most knits and they are used for trim and body goods.

  Interlock Fabric: Two yarn feeds are required to create one course. The knitting in front and back gives interlock a smooth surface on each side of the fabric. Selected needles can be pulled out for poor boy looks.

  Lacoste Fabric: The original stitch configuration used in Lacoste shirts. The tucking pattern creates a tiny honeycomb look on the technical back of the fabric, which is used as the face for garments.

  Pique Fabric: The combination of knit and tuck stitches gives a small diamond's appearance to the face of the fabric. It is the most popular fabric used in collar/placket shirts





Weaving:

Woven Fabric:

Woven fabrics are produced by the process of weaving. Weaving is the interlacing of two or more yarns, using loom. Generally, woven fabrics are strong fabrics.

Weaving process:

To weave yarns together, the loom is first set up with yarns running lengthwise from the top to the bottom of the loom. These are called warp yarns. A second yarn is then threaded from side to side, over and underneath warp yarns, to make fabric. This is called the weft yarns.

During the weaving process, the weft yarn is taken over and underneath the warp yarns with a shuttle. For each row being woven, selected warp yarns are either lifted or lowered, creating a passage for the shuttle to pass through with the weft yarn.

When the shuttle completes passing through the space provided, from one side to the other, the position of the warp yarns is again changed and the weft is brought back through in the return direction. This process is continually repeated until the fabric is produced.

The weft yarn turning and returning to make the next row creates a strong edge on the fabric, called the selvedge. It is the strongest part of the fabric. It will not fray like a cut edge.

Woven fabric types:

A variety of weave types may be used to create fabrics with different textures and appearances. These weaves include plain, twill, basket or hop sack, satin and sateen. The resulting fabrics differ depending on the number of warp yarns the weft yarns goes over at a time, and in what combinations.