Woven fabric manufacturing proccess

Woven Fabric:

Woven fabrics are produced by the process of weaving. Weaving is the interlacing of two or more yarns, using loom. Generally, woven fabrics are strong fabrics.

Weaving process:

To weave yarns together, the loom is first set up with yarns running lengthwise from the top to the bottom of the loom. These are called warp yarns. A second yarn is then threaded from side to side, over and underneath warp yarns, to make fabric. This is called the weft yarns.

During the weaving process, the weft yarn is taken over and underneath the warp yarns with a shuttle. For each row being woven, selected warp yarns are either lifted or lowered, creating a passage for the shuttle to pass through with the weft yarn.

When the shuttle completes passing through the space provided, from one side to the other, the position of the warp yarns is again changed and the weft is brought back through in the return direction. This process is continually repeated until the fabric is produced.

The weft yarn turning and returning to make the next row creates a strong edge on the fabric, called the selvedge. It is the strongest part of the fabric. It will not fray like a cut edge.

Woven fabric types:

A variety of weave types may be used to create fabrics with different textures and appearances. These weaves include plain, twill, basket or hop sack, satin and sateen. The resulting fabrics differ depending on the number of warp yarns the weft yarns goes over at a time, and in what combinations.

Knit Fabric manufacturing process

Knitting:

Textile fabric is defined as two dimensional plane-like structure made of textile materials, having reasonable strength, elongation, flexibility, etc., used for different applications, particularly for apparels. Knitting is the second most popular technique of fabric or garment formation of inter-looping one or one set of yarns, and its share in fabric production is about 20%. In knitting continuous length of yarn is converted into vertical inter-meshed loops either by hand or by machine.

According to the direction of movement of yarn during loop formation, knitting can be classified as weft knitting and warp knitting. Out of the two types of knitting, weft knitting is widely used.

Weft Knitting: If the yarns run in the width or cross-wise direction with reference to the direction of fabric formation during knitting, then the process of knitting is called weft knitting.

Warp Knitting: In case the yarns run in the length direction, i.e. the direction of fabric formation during knitting, the process is called warp knitting.

 Accordingly, the structures are called weft-knitted fabric and warp-knitted fabric, respectively, and the machines employed for the purpose are called weft knitting machine and warp knitting machine.

Process Flow Chart for Knitting:

Yarn in package form
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Place the yarn package in the creel
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Feeding the yarn
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Set the m/c as per design & GSM
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Knitting
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Withdraw the roll fabric and weighting
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Roll marking
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Inspection
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Numbering 

Some terms of knit fabric:

  Single knits: Knit fabric produced using a single set of knitting needles. It is usually a thin lightweight fabric.

  Double-knit: Knit fabric produced on two sets of opposing needless. It is thicker and heavier than a single knit fabric.

  Technical Face: The outside of the tube of fabric produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the outside of a finished garment made from the fabric.

  Technical Back: The inside of the tube of fabric produced by a circular knitting machine. This may or may not be the inside of a finished garment made from the fabric.

   Knit Stitch: An interlocking series of loops used to construct a fabric. See the diagram above of the basic weft knit fabric.

  Tuck Stitch: A needle receives a new yarn without losing its old loop. A tuck loop always faces the technical back of the fabric.

   Welt, Miss, or Float Stitch: These terms describe the same formation. The stitch is created by not allowing the needle to raise high enough to receive a new yarn, causing the yarn to float behind the face stitches.

   Inlay Stitch: Combination of float and tuck stitches. In a 3x1 inlay, three needles float and one tucks. Commonly used in Fleece and French Terry fabrics.

   Jersey Fabric: The basic single knit construction (T- shirt fabric) with the appearance of tiny “V” is on the face of the fabric and wavy courses on the back of the fabric.

   Rib Fabric: This double-knit fabric draws some wales to the front and others to the back for a ridge effect. Ribs have a higher stretch and recovery than most knits and they are used for trim and body goods.

  Interlock Fabric: Two yarn feeds are required to create one course. The knitting in front and back gives interlock a smooth surface on each side of the fabric. Selected needles can be pulled out for poor boy looks.

  Lacoste Fabric: The original stitch configuration used in Lacoste shirts. The tucking pattern creates a tiny honeycomb look on the technical back of the fabric, which is used as the face for garments.

  Pique Fabric: The combination of knit and tuck stitches gives a small diamond's appearance to the face of the fabric. It is the most popular fabric used in collar/placket shirts

Definition of Merchandiser

-- As per Webster’s new dictionary”merchandising is the part of marketing involves Promoting sales of merchandise, as by consideration of the most effective means Of selecting, pricing, displaying and advertising items for sale in a retail Store.

But in garment merchandising garment product and accessories Is the focused item and it has gotten more diversified meaning with a lot of Responsibilities

It can be defined as “a Garment Merchandiser is the person who engages himself in sourcing, costing, Organizing, arranging and promoting sales of any commodities as per required Standard”

The basic flow chart of merchandising process

Received  art work and size spec for development of the sample

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 V

Making development sample 

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 V 

Consumption (from CAD) & costing

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V

Meeting with buyer for price & order confirmation and LC received

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V

Lab-dip approval

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V

Making different types of sample (as per buyer requirement) for approval

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V

Making pre-production (pp) sample with all actual

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V

Yarn booking

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V

Bulk fabric order

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V

Accessories order

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V

After approval of pp sample arrange pp meeting

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V

Start bulk production

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V

Arrange an inline inspection

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V

Send a test sample to 3^rd party testing center

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V

After completion of bulk production arrange final inspection

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V

Arrange all commercial papers for shipment

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V

Shipment

If you are a fresh Merchandiser

1. What should you need to do on the first day on the job?

1.1-If your educational background is Textile or merchandising related course

1.1.1 - Good; you know the basic things about the apparel or garment industry.

1.1.2 - So only you need to know the job responsibility of your post.

1.1.3 - You should know under which buyer account you are and how many orders of that buyer are running and in which state these orders are. (I will describe about the flow chart of the merchandising process for a particular order on my next post. There you could find the different state of that order)

1.1.4- These duties are enough for a fresh merchandiser on the first day of his job.

1.2- If you are from the general educational background

1.2.1 - May be you don’t have much idea about apparel or garment industry.

1.2.2-First you need to know what textile industry is.

1.2.3 - Click the link to know about textile industry

            http://apparel-merchandiser.blogspot.com/2013/09/what-is-textile.html

1.2.4 - After getting information about textile/apparel/garment industry you need to follow from 1.1.1

Yarn Manufacturing Process

The first process of textile industry is spinning process. The raw material of this process is cotton and the output of this process is yarn. Several types of processes are related to this process, that’s why this process is a complicated process.

According to types of finish, yarn can divided into four. Such as-

• Combed Yarn
• Carded Yarn
• Rotor Yarn
• Slav yarn

And by the types of raw material yarn can be divided into-

·         100% cotton yarn.

• CVC yarn. CVC- chief value of cotton. Percentage of cotton and polyester are basically 65 and 35 or 60 and 40 respectively. Most of the time it depends upon the buyer requirement.
• 100% polyester yarn.
• PC yarn. PC- Polyester cotton. Here percentage of polyester is more than cotton.
• 100% Viscose yarn.

Except these many more kinds of yarn are producing in this textile world. Such as gray mélange( blending of cotton and viscose),Bamboo yarn, Organic cotton yarn etc. 

Process Flowchart of Combed Yarn Manufacturing

Input ———Processing Machinery ———-Output

Raw Cotton--------------Blow Room--------------Lap

Lap-------------------------Carding--------------Carded Sliver

Carded Sliver--------Pre-Comb Drawing-----Pre-comb drawn sliver

Pre-comb Drawn Sliver----Super Lap Former---Mini Lap

Mini Lap----------------Comber--------------Combed Sliver

Combed Sliver-------Post Comb Drawing------Post Comb Drawn Sliver

Post Comb Drawn Sliver---- Simplex------------Roving

Roving-----------------------Ring Frame-------------------Yarn

Yarn--------------------------Winding-------------------Yarn package

 Properties of combed yarn:

        •Combed yarn is produced by excluding of short yarns

        • More fine and regular

        • Higher breaking strength.

        • More lustrous

        • Naps percentages is almost zero.

        • Less hairy

        • Higher quality of yarn

The unit of yarn is count. Counts Indicates the thickness of yarn. More the count finer the yarn is. Yarn price also Increases according to increased by count number.

Common yarn count:

• 20 count 
• 22 count
• 24 count
• 26 count
• 28 count 
• 30 count
• 32 count
• 34 count
• 36 count
• 40 count